Highlighting links between our food and our landscape
CAROL TREWIN was a gifted journalist who, ten months after her death, is still making a notable contribution to the profile of local food and drink in North Devon.
What she left us was The Devon Food Book, a work which shows clearly how she cared about local farming and food culture.
North Devon produces some of Britain's finest foods, many being a tribute to the variety of farming practices that the region boasts.
The Devon Food Book, which was published earlier this year, showcases a cornucopia of produce and features a number of farms in our area.
The book also delves into the long history of Devon farming and paints a fascinating picture of how the region's landscape has shaped and developed local food culture.
Over the centuries North Devon has seen a diversity of farming crops and livestock, giving rise to a well balanced agriculture which has produced everything from clotted cream and cheeses to prime beef and lamb.
Key points around the coastline have also proved a catalyst for the local fishing industry which also features in the books gloriously colourful pages.
What The Devon Food Book does best though is to show how the food we eat links directly with the skills and techniques of a host of differing local farm practices.
One such example is meat production, which has always been at the heart of North Devon's agriculture.
The book explains how the local Red Ruby had to do battle with the likes of Charolais and Simmental for supremacy in the beef market.
The continental imports threatened to dominate in an era of fast food and mass produced supermarket stock, however Red Rubies have stood their ground and remain renowned for their texture and flavour.
Chris Pouncey who farms near Umberleigh took over his father in law's herd twenty five years ago and is happy to extol the virtues of the Red Ruby.
He comments: "They are the most wonderful breed to work with."
He supplies directly to Shapland and Searle butchers in South Molton whose customers have come to recognise and respect the quality of his meat.
Their billboards will often proudly boast that "this week's beef is Red Ruby from Mr Pouncey".
Explaining why the meat is so popular Michael Shapland is very clear: "The texture and colour of lean and fat go very well, the balance is just right. Our customers like to know where their meat comes from and the Red Ruby is a local breed from a local farm."
Beef cattle are only one example though of the link between farming and food produce in the North of the county.
Sheep, pigs, chicken, goats, deer, geese and a range of fish and shellfish have all made the journey from local land or water to kitchen plate.
Of course there's also the dairy industry which has been a key sector of North Devon farming for many a year.
These days most of the milk produced in our region goes out of the county to be processed by large concerns such as Dairy Crest.
Robert Wiseman Dairy has also recently been on the lookout for North Devon suppliers.
Nevertheless a number of local dairy farmers have taken matters into their own hands including self processing and marketing.
The Devon Food Book mentions Chris and Sue Batstone as an example.
They farmed at West Hill near Ilfracombe and at the end of the 1990s having switched to organic farming methods.
They bottled and delivered their own milk, and went on to develop their own range of creams and yoghurts and what the book describes as 'a sensational chocolate sauce'.
They subsequently sold their milk round and some of the recipes to Bernie Worth who trades as West Down Dairies.
Whilst rightfully praising the backbone of the farming industry the book is very keen to highlight those who have ventured into more diverse farming practices.
Whether organic, eco-friendly, biosphere aware or acutely artisan the focus is always on buying local and supporting local farmers.
Consumers at large now seem more aware of the problems some farmers have experienced as a result of the 'supermarket stranglehold', which is why The Devon Food Book is keen to support smaller farms who supply directly to local businesses.
Carol Trewin sadly died before its publication, having lost a three and a half year battle with leukaemia.
She had been both the farming and food editor of the Western Morning News as well as one time editor of BBC Radio 4's Farming Today.
Not only did she have a wealth of knowledge on the food and farming culture of Devon as a whole, but she also clearly had a huge passion for her work.
The tributes from chefs Michael Caines and Rick Stein at the beginning of the book speak for themselves.
The book is not only a tribute to Carol Trewin but to all concerned in the link between farming practice and food production in our region.
North Devon farmers are only likely to benefit from its exposure as it sets out to be an icon of Devon food and drink.
The Devon Food Book is available from local bookshops and the usual online outlets. For more information or to order direct go to www.thedevonfoodbook.co.uk














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