Learn to cook game in the proper Cornish way
Justin and Sarah Mason met in the French Alps when they were both working as chefs in ski chalets. Today, though, the couple have set up a bed and breakfast in Cornwall – with a twist. It comes complete with, of all things, its own cookery school.
But meeting them, the business makes perfect sense. Justin and Sarah are welcoming hosts with a love of good food and a real enthusiasm about how best to cook it.
And at this time of year, Justin is getting ready to run a cookery course concentrating on that speciality of the season: wild game. The wonderful produce on offer in their kitchen at the moment includes venison, wild duck, pheasant and rabbit.
"I love cooking game," says Justin. "It's the very best thing about autumn in my opinion. The richness of the flavours invites all sorts of robust sauces and it's such nourishing food as the days get darker and colder."
Justin and Sarah, with their children Jasper, eight, and Hebe, seven, live and work in Park Farmhouse. It's an old hunting lodge on the Pencarrow Estate near Bodmin which now sleeps up to seven guests and has a teaching kitchen.
Many of the visitors come specifically for the game shooting. Their expert guide is Justin's business partner Scott Milne, 33.
Scott has lived in Cornwall all his life, but is internationally renowned as a hunt leader. It's a career that takes him all over the world, from Russia to America.
There is not much he doesn't know about hunting; indeed I was surprised to hear he has even seen red deer on Bodmin Moor. I hadn't realised they lived so far west.
"I saw one just this morning, in fact," he explains. "There are a surprising number of them living in North Cornwall these days."
In fact, Scott tells me, red deer are positively normal compared to another sighting he had the other day: wallabies. Some pet ones have escaped and colonised Bodmin Moor. It sounds far-fetched, but he showed me the photographs to prove it: sure enough, they can be seen hopping about beside granite outcrops. A little bit of Australia in the Westcountry.
There's been a lot in the news just lately about the sighting and possible shooting of an enormous red deer, nicknamed The Emperor, near Tiverton. It's certainly stirred up opinion but the WMN food pages are probably not the place for a heated debate on the rights and wrongs of hunting. At the very least we'd end up without enough space for the recipes.
Be that as it may, it's good to know that all game shot for Park Farmhouse is killed humanely as part of the sustainable management of the animal population in the area.
"I feel very strongly that if you do shoot a wild animal, you should treat it with respect and make the very best use of it when cooking," says Justin.
And thanks to these wonderful recipes from him, you certainly will. His duck in honey, soy and ginger sauce was simply the most delicious thing I've tasted all year. And the other dishes aren't half bad, either.
If you would like to learn more about how to shoot and cook game, Justin, Sarah and Scott are running a three-day Kill It, Cook It, Eat It course at Park Farmhouse from December 17-19. It costs £695, including dinner, bed and breakfast. For details, visit wwwpark-farmhouse.com or call 01208 841 277.








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